Excitement set in from the moment we all piled into the cab that dropped us off at the Pune Airport. After a quiet plane journey, we plunged headlong into the bustling traffic of the capital city of India, New Delhi. As we traveled across the city from the airport to the railway terminus, we could not help but notice the clean roads, carefully manicured gardens, stately residences, government offices, huge flyovers and the metro rail lines that truly give the feel of a ‘capital city’ to New Delhi.
We proceeded to Haridwar from Delhi by train on a sweltering hot day. Haridwar, the city was indeed a revelation. The famous temples, first glimpse of the sacred Ganga River, the Ghats, the sadhus was expected. But what surprised me were the posh hotels, a sign board advertising ‘Shivani-the complete Herbal Beauty Parlour’ and to top it all, a Café Coffee Day on the banks of the Ganga!!
An hour long journey full of incessant honking of horns and rash driving brought us to Rishikesh. Rishikesh, the ‘Yoga’ capital of the world serves as the base for the Char Dham Pilgrimage and the gateway to the Garwhal Himalayas. A short ascent brought us to the ‘Rishilok Tourist Rest House’ in Muni-ki-Reti, operated by the Garwhal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN). Excellent locations, well equipped rooms, a beautiful garden, lawns to laze around and mouth watering food characterize all GMVN rest houses. After a refreshing shower and a filling dinner, we turned off the lights, eagerly awaiting the following morning to set off on the tour.
Our group of 17 was indeed an assortment of sorts. Our family of four was the single largest family in the group. Then, there was a portly Bengali lady along with her husband and brother. We jokingly called her the ‘Bong Babe’ amongst ourselves. The Sharma family from Indore was a decent family of three, mother, father and a rather shy daughter. The father-son duo of the Bindras from Delhi was a jolly pair, ever enthusiastic and always ready to share a laugh. The Karve family from Nasik came as a relief to us; we could atleast converse in Marathi! The Bhats from Tehri were a typical Garhwali couple with incredible stamina, but usually kept to themselves. A tour group is never complete without a tour guide. Our guide, Amit Khanduri, was a shy, soft spoken young guy. After much contemplation and debate of whether to call him ‘ji’ or ‘sir’, we finally settled on Amit bhaiyya.
The trip began with the blessings of Durga Mata at a temple enroute and a long journey traversing about 224 km brought us to our first halt at Asnol, barely 7 km short of Yamunotri. The trek to the Yamunotri Shrine is a steep 6 km climb which never seems to end! The temple dedicated to Goddess Yamuna, nestled in the mountains is always abuzz with activity. What we thought of as merely 6 km, took us almost 3 hours to climb. Aloo parathas, fresh from the pan refreshed us and we explored the temple premises. As our eyes veered towards the peaks, we saw the ‘Saptarshi Kund’, the actual place where the Yamuna originates.
The next destination on our agenda was Gangotri, another 260 km away, the second in order of the Char Dham Pilgrimage. As the road broke off towards Gangotri at a small hamlet at Dharasu, the beauty of the Garwhal Himalayas became even more evident. The Ganga River, fondly referred to as ‘Ganga Maiyya’ by the local people kept us company throughout the drive through densely wooded forests, apple and apricot orchards, colourful wild flowers and the towering mountain peaks that soared into the blue skies. Gangotri, in the hinterlands of the Himalayas is widely accepted to be the point where the holy river Ganga touched upon the Earth.
We reached Gangotri exactly in time for the ‘Ganga Aarti’. We loitered around a bit near Suryakunda, a natural rock formation where the Kedar-Ganga gushes out with unbelievable force. The Ganga Aarti on the banks of the river was an experience to remember. Every single person present- young or old; devotee or tourist, gathered around on the steps of the Ghat, chanting and clapping to the hymns being sung by the priests, braving the biting cold.
Perfect weather characterized the day we set off for Gomukh. The trek route, 18km long was a narrow, well trodden path. The route was long and hard, but thinking back, I do feel that such treks help a lot in molding one as a person. It is a challenge, both physically and mentally. The thrill of adventure, that rush of adrenaline, an extreme desire to conquer hitherto unknown territory tests you to the very limit of your own ability and finally it is the will power of the self that plays a lion’s share in the ultimate achievement.
Something very similar did go through my mind to as we inched towards Bhojwasa. We were surprised to see many foreigners also undertaking this trek and pleased as they all greeted us with folded hands and a heavily accented ‘namaste’! We heaved a sigh of relief as Bhojwasa came in sight! The atmosphere turned chilly as the evening descended upon us and we sat on the porch, nursing hot cups of coffee, the temperature dropping to a freezing 0 degrees!
The next day began early for us as we set off at to achieve our ultimate mission of this trek. An undulating and rocky terrain finally led us to Gomukh. It here that the icy glacier of Gangotri extending right from the Chaukhamba cluster of peaks near Badrinath finally melts into the Ganga River. Towering peaks surrounded us on all four sides. The Bhagirath family of peaks in front, Mount Shivalinga rose regally towards our right and Meru Parvat, Manda Peak and the Bhrigupanth peak time and again made us realize how insignificant we were in front of nature.
Our trip in essence was a quest of the Ganga. At Gomukh we saw her in infancy, her adolescence evident as she makes her way down the mountain slopes from Gangotri, frolicking and gurgling. Ganga then matures into a quiet, expansive flow, anointed as ‘Ganga Maiyya’ by one and all at Rishikesh and further to Haridwar from where she makes her way down to the great plains of India. We too made our way down to Gangotri frequently looking back over our shoulders at the view that we were going to miss so much!
As the tour came to an end, there are two basic questions in my mind that still do not cease to go away. HOW? and WHY? How did the rishi- munis ever think of setting up these shrines in such picturesque locations? How did they manage to maintain them in those days? Why do crores of people brave the elements to come and seek blessings at these temples? Why does nature have to be so diverse and so beautiful? How did a person ever think of climbing a mountain? Why are the Garhwali people so warm and hospitable? Why do all trips have to finally come to an end?
With my mind full of these unanswered questions, and with a last glimpse of the Himalayas and the Ganga, we started our long journey back to Pune via Haridwar and Delhi. Though I have come back here, in the hustle-bustle of the city, to my Pune, my home, my family and friends, to my favourite haunts, my mind still flickers to those seven days, those moments flash past in my mind’s eye as I silently vow to return to the Himalayas yet again!
